Bon Appetit in Cyprus

A year ago, while in Nicosia- I had a chance to eat Cypriot mezze at Plaka Tavern. It tantalized my taste buds, and thereafter during my stay of 11 days in Cyprus I tasted the mezze thrice… despite it being exorbitantly priced at USD 25 (and therefore more than a 1000 INR). Nevertheless it was a very good value for money.

I have never tasted anything like Cypriot mezze, before that… and though I had heard about the Turkish, Greek mezze… but Cypriot mezze paled them in comparison (from what I had heard about them).

People arrive at a mezze joint in the evening and are greeted with a Kalispera (good evening) and a Kopiaste (Welcome, join us for the mezze) … and you are ushered into a open air restaurant, among live music playing distinctly Greek or Cypriot tune… which lend a typical Mediterranean bohemian atmosphere to the whole place. And they leave well past the midnight, having relished themselves with a wonderful meal in a relaxed atmosphere…thoroughly de-stressed, saying Kalinita (good night) to the owner.

Mezze is a typical Greek/Cypriot dish that consists of a variety of small portions of different foods served one after the other, coming along at intervals. The Cypriot mezze is regarded as something quite special and consists of more dishes than you usually get in Greece or in Turkey. Mezze is the best introduction to Cypriot cooking due to the sheer variety and quality, consisting of a number of dishes, from delicious sauces, vegetables, cheese, fruits to a variety of fish and meats, including the most delicious of them all…the snails. The main course comprises about 20-25 plates of food so it is highly unlikely that one would not find something that tantalizes his or her taste buds.

For the uninitiated however, I have a couple of advice…First and foremost… work up your appetite by eating sparingly through the day- either by eating frugal or having a real early lunch or having a lunch of fruits only. Two in the evening before going to the mezze joint, do some light exercise… couple of strokes in the swimming pool or a brisk walk…that works your appetite and also attune your digestive system to the delight you are going to have. Three and the most important, when the dishes are laid before you… take everything in moderation… taste everything and then you would realize what really suits your taste buds and can re-order the entire thing (Cypriots love it when they are complimented for their cuisine, the chef may also try to explain how to make a particular dish…if requested); As the Cypriots say eat Siga, Siga (slowly, slowly)…. If you violate this rule then you may get bumped off the mezze even before all the dishes are served. Last but not the least… after the mezze; do go for a long walk- Cyprus is a beautiful place… the weather is wonderful in the evening and the streets are well lit… there is absolutely nothing to stop from having a long walk. So have it… as it would help you in digesting everything. Remember… Cypriots are hard workers… even the eldest of Cypriot is seen gardening in his house… they can digest it all; but for us mortals-we really need to take this walk.

The mezze generally starts with Tahina sauce- made from sesame; mint and cumbered flavored yoghurt called Talattouri; Humus chick peas in olive oil with a dab of pepper, parsley and coriander; sometime it also has some fish blended with lemon juice or prawns- this is served with pitta bread and locally made white bread. And lest you imagine that wow that’s a good meal…. No, this is just the starter, to develop your appetite.

The second course leaves you wondering…what to eat and what to leave??? Potatoes wit lemon and olive oil; Salad with pickled cauliflower, beetroot, olives and herbs; Haloomi- mint flavored soft goat cheese and Fetta cheese- goat cheese famous for its sharp taste; Cypriot sausages called Loukanika and Sheftalia; Smoked pork fillet marinated in coriander; meat and rice stuffed vine leaves called Dolmades (a clear adaptation of Egyptian dish Warq Al Ainab (literally meaning the vine leaf)….And a huge assortment of breads

As the restaurant owner will tell you again and again…. The taste of everything has to be relished and therefore everything has to be taken in moderation. The dishes however are having large portions and they arrive in quick succession.

This is followed by a third course, this course is largely meat based and has to be eaten as it is…without breads - Tuna; Souvlakia (kebab); Grilled chicken; Snails; Squids; Moussaka- minced meat with eggplant topped by a creamy sauce; Afelia- pork marinated in wine; Stiphado- spicy beef or rabbit stew; Kleftiko- grilled lamb chops. This is just to name a few….which I bothered to ask and jot down in my diary.

By this time, most of us are through and wondering what is next… we actually started praying that there are no dishes to follow… but then we saw the Cypriots- they were still eating and eating… there is definitely a method in this madness.

The fourth course is of fresh fruits….you name it and you have it… oranges, plantains, figs, melon, grapes, kiwifruit, dates, olives… though Cypriots love Watermelon…. One person can finish a medium size melon by himself. Go to any Cypriot market and the place is full of exotic fruits

And then comes the final course…when the owner comes and personally offers you a cup of refreshing Turkish coffee.

The locals gobble it all with wonderful Red wine… Cyprus, incidentally also produces wonderful Red Wine Commandaria, and also sherries. Eating out is not only a social event…but also a way of life in Cyprus…

So next time when you are in Cyprus…don’t forget to have the MEZZE