Aimless wanderings in the Egyptian heartland. Part Six- Rafah and Ismailiya, a study in contrast
Garnata is the most beautiful beach that I have seen in my life… and I have seen a plenty of them… from the Kovlam, Vagator and Devgarh on the Arabian Sea to the Ayanapas, Dahabs and Sharm El Sheikh elsewhere… Garnata is Mediterranean at its best.
I must have walked the stretch of the beach for hours… lost in my thoughts…. Trying to talk with myself… one of my best friends and the very best listener of the banter is my wife… and for some time now she had left for India… and therefore I was always pent up with a lot of unexpressed thoughts…. Garnata gave me an opportunity to speak them aloud… mull them over and to self advise myself. Such is the power of loneliness… miles and miles I didn’t see a human being apart from a lone fisherman adjusting and readjusting his fishing line and some small kids playing with the splashing waves… these companionships added to the romance of being lonely.
Time loses its bearings when you are enjoying the bliss… it either becomes too short to enjoy or a moment brings a elongated stretch of happiness… in my opinion, the former attribute of time does not bring out the best in you… it underlines us as a desireful human being… the latter is pure bliss… I walked in soliloquy for hours and hours and then after a while when I checked my watch… it had been a little more than an hour. The beauty of nature… the catharsis of loneliness and eloquence of my self had nourished me soulful. It was time to go and to let go.
My next stop was Rafah… Rafah is a border town in the Gaza Strip… and it's only contact with the rest of the world… its narrow opening to the world of hope and opportunity. The rest of the Gaza Strip is surrounded by a sea of hostilities, Israel. And not that the Rafah Crossing is friendly either… it's sometimes even more hostile than that 'sea of hostilities' called Israel. Some months ago it was taken over by the radical and much more popular Hamas… and therefore isolated from all sides. It has since then been a constant source of threat for Israel… launching rocket attacks on it. And therefore had been seized and blockaded. The Palestinians face enormous amount of difficulties and rely a lot on Rafah. Only that these difficulties are multiplied due to unhelpful attitude of Egyptian government.
One needs to take a shared taxi to Rafah crossing… and as Maghawary had warned me, it's indeed a heavily protected area… every few kilometers your credentials are checked and being a foreigner brings you under a constant barrage of question. Luckily those days Rafah was having a bout of peaceful times. And therefore the authorities were a bit less skeptical about the fact that an Indian is trying to travel to Rafah without any sense of purpose.
Rafah, however, turned out to be a disappointment. There was hardly anything to see or do there. It was even more a ghost town than El Arish. People later told me that there are a few Palestinian refugee camps that are heavily guarded, they have in them Palestinians who were driven out of Gaza Strip and therefore have no place to go. They were mostly Fatah supporters. A similar such thing is happening in the West Bank too… but the Hashemite government in Jordan is a bit more sympathetic. In any case, it was virtually impossible for me to meet any of them.
The over burdening security apparatus in Rafah is palpable. Far away I could see the Gaza Strip… it was a scene that would be sketched in my memory forever. I was seeing the theatre of the longest standing political of the human civilization, a problem that threatens to swallow us in a vortex of violence. A few months ago, I met Austrian diplomat and he was remembering that how 23 years ago when he started his career in Egypt (that was 1984, and Israel had invaded Lebanon), the centrality of global polity was Israel and Palestine… and how even after 23 years the same remains true. I hope that after 23 years of my existence this does not hold true.
I came back to El Arish and started for Ismailiya… my plan was to somehow reach Dahab by the night.
Ismailiya is a very pleasant town… a town of gardens and greenery. People who hail from the Canal area often term it as the most beautiful place in Egypt. That may be a bit of a superlative for I have seen much more beautiful places in Egypt… Dakhla for instance has an enticing raw beauty that most of the touristy destinations do not have; same goes for Dahab that has a carefree beauty about it. But Ismailiya is definitely a beautiful place… and more than that it is a place full of beautiful and young girls… as I was told, that Ismailiya has a lot of educational institutions that serve the entire Canal area, so a lot of students from all over the canal area travel to Ismailiya… students from Port Said, Qantara, Port Suez etc. And all over the place, I saw lots and lots of young boys and girls traveling to and from Ismailiya…
When I reached Ismailiya bus stand, I realized that the bus to Dahab is late in the night at 10 pm… so I had all the time in the world to see Ismailiya… it was only 4 pm… I hired a cab and gave him 20 Egyptian pounds to show me entire Ismailiya; he took me to the house of De Lesseps, the maker of the Suez Canal and to the Canal. The town is really very beautiful… and a nice place to take break from Cairo or even the more unaesthetic Suez and Port Said.
The driver took me to a Kushri shop, which he claimed served better Kushris than the more famous shops of Cairo… I, however, begged to differ. I have a doubt and that too a strong one that somehow Kushri and Kichhadi of India are related, ingredient wise they have an uncanny resemblance… rice and lentils… One Egyptian was telling me that there is a very strong relationship between Kosher and Kushri… as Kushri devoid of any meat and milk was kosher diet for the Jews of Egypt…
After the round through the town… I waited eagerly for the Bus to Dahab… that went there via Port Suez and Sharm El Sheikh. At 8 however I found a bus going to Sharm El Sheikh and boarded the bus thinking that it would be a faster way to get to Dahab; that however was my folly as I discovered later on.
I was off to Sharm El Sheikh, bidding adieu to the serenity of Ismailiya.
I must have walked the stretch of the beach for hours… lost in my thoughts…. Trying to talk with myself… one of my best friends and the very best listener of the banter is my wife… and for some time now she had left for India… and therefore I was always pent up with a lot of unexpressed thoughts…. Garnata gave me an opportunity to speak them aloud… mull them over and to self advise myself. Such is the power of loneliness… miles and miles I didn’t see a human being apart from a lone fisherman adjusting and readjusting his fishing line and some small kids playing with the splashing waves… these companionships added to the romance of being lonely.
Time loses its bearings when you are enjoying the bliss… it either becomes too short to enjoy or a moment brings a elongated stretch of happiness… in my opinion, the former attribute of time does not bring out the best in you… it underlines us as a desireful human being… the latter is pure bliss… I walked in soliloquy for hours and hours and then after a while when I checked my watch… it had been a little more than an hour. The beauty of nature… the catharsis of loneliness and eloquence of my self had nourished me soulful. It was time to go and to let go.
My next stop was Rafah… Rafah is a border town in the Gaza Strip… and it's only contact with the rest of the world… its narrow opening to the world of hope and opportunity. The rest of the Gaza Strip is surrounded by a sea of hostilities, Israel. And not that the Rafah Crossing is friendly either… it's sometimes even more hostile than that 'sea of hostilities' called Israel. Some months ago it was taken over by the radical and much more popular Hamas… and therefore isolated from all sides. It has since then been a constant source of threat for Israel… launching rocket attacks on it. And therefore had been seized and blockaded. The Palestinians face enormous amount of difficulties and rely a lot on Rafah. Only that these difficulties are multiplied due to unhelpful attitude of Egyptian government.
One needs to take a shared taxi to Rafah crossing… and as Maghawary had warned me, it's indeed a heavily protected area… every few kilometers your credentials are checked and being a foreigner brings you under a constant barrage of question. Luckily those days Rafah was having a bout of peaceful times. And therefore the authorities were a bit less skeptical about the fact that an Indian is trying to travel to Rafah without any sense of purpose.
Rafah, however, turned out to be a disappointment. There was hardly anything to see or do there. It was even more a ghost town than El Arish. People later told me that there are a few Palestinian refugee camps that are heavily guarded, they have in them Palestinians who were driven out of Gaza Strip and therefore have no place to go. They were mostly Fatah supporters. A similar such thing is happening in the West Bank too… but the Hashemite government in Jordan is a bit more sympathetic. In any case, it was virtually impossible for me to meet any of them.
The over burdening security apparatus in Rafah is palpable. Far away I could see the Gaza Strip… it was a scene that would be sketched in my memory forever. I was seeing the theatre of the longest standing political of the human civilization, a problem that threatens to swallow us in a vortex of violence. A few months ago, I met Austrian diplomat and he was remembering that how 23 years ago when he started his career in Egypt (that was 1984, and Israel had invaded Lebanon), the centrality of global polity was Israel and Palestine… and how even after 23 years the same remains true. I hope that after 23 years of my existence this does not hold true.
I came back to El Arish and started for Ismailiya… my plan was to somehow reach Dahab by the night.
Ismailiya is a very pleasant town… a town of gardens and greenery. People who hail from the Canal area often term it as the most beautiful place in Egypt. That may be a bit of a superlative for I have seen much more beautiful places in Egypt… Dakhla for instance has an enticing raw beauty that most of the touristy destinations do not have; same goes for Dahab that has a carefree beauty about it. But Ismailiya is definitely a beautiful place… and more than that it is a place full of beautiful and young girls… as I was told, that Ismailiya has a lot of educational institutions that serve the entire Canal area, so a lot of students from all over the canal area travel to Ismailiya… students from Port Said, Qantara, Port Suez etc. And all over the place, I saw lots and lots of young boys and girls traveling to and from Ismailiya…
When I reached Ismailiya bus stand, I realized that the bus to Dahab is late in the night at 10 pm… so I had all the time in the world to see Ismailiya… it was only 4 pm… I hired a cab and gave him 20 Egyptian pounds to show me entire Ismailiya; he took me to the house of De Lesseps, the maker of the Suez Canal and to the Canal. The town is really very beautiful… and a nice place to take break from Cairo or even the more unaesthetic Suez and Port Said.
The driver took me to a Kushri shop, which he claimed served better Kushris than the more famous shops of Cairo… I, however, begged to differ. I have a doubt and that too a strong one that somehow Kushri and Kichhadi of India are related, ingredient wise they have an uncanny resemblance… rice and lentils… One Egyptian was telling me that there is a very strong relationship between Kosher and Kushri… as Kushri devoid of any meat and milk was kosher diet for the Jews of Egypt…
After the round through the town… I waited eagerly for the Bus to Dahab… that went there via Port Suez and Sharm El Sheikh. At 8 however I found a bus going to Sharm El Sheikh and boarded the bus thinking that it would be a faster way to get to Dahab; that however was my folly as I discovered later on.
I was off to Sharm El Sheikh, bidding adieu to the serenity of Ismailiya.